Camming Devices Rock Climbing Ever since Jardine invented the first fully functional unit (with the proper camming angle) to the climbing community with his introduction of Friends, climbing achievement standards have advanced considerably through the use of superior technology, Middle: A well place cam with the cam between 25% and 75% of its range, Originally design by an aerospace engineer Ray Jardine, who was also a keen climbers, The wide size range per unit means that it is easier to find the cam you need for the size placement you want it to fit into, As climbers venture into the vertical realm, these ingenious pieces of gear often become their trusted companions, providing the critical protection needed to tackle challenging routes, Jan 25, 2010 · Likes Aliens used to be unchallenged among small camming units for big wall climbs, Previously climbers used pitons, hexes, and nuts to protect upward movement, Nov 11, 2021 · Spring-loaded camming devices (aka “SLCDs” aka “cams”), those works of high-tech art, have myriad moving parts, and almost all incorporate some blend of metal, plastic, and nylon (for slings and trigger wires), Apr 9, 2021 · Trad climbers have access to countless classics thanks to their gear-placing skills, As a result of researching ways Modern rock-climbing equipment includes dynamic ropes, plyometric training tools, advanced spring-loaded camming devices (SLCDs) for protection, and advanced rope control devices such as self-locking devices (SLDs), progress capture devices (PCDs), and assisted braking devices (ABDs), This article explains the physics of how climbing cams work, and also how to place, remove and rack them, Camming devices, also known as cams, are spring-loaded devices that can be inserted into cracks and then expanded to create a secure anchor point, It consists of two, three, or four cams mounted on a common axle or two adjacent axles, so that pulling on the axle forces the cams to Cams Climbing cams (A, As such, it is vital that you educate yourself about them and what makes them useful and worthwhile, An exploration of Spring loaded camming devices (SLCDs or cams) and how they were developed, how they work and how different models compare to each other, There was nothing that could get into shallow pin scars remotely as well as they could, The shape of the cams on a typical camming device is given by the formula: r = eµø r is the radius e is the natural logarithm base µ is a coefficient which determines how "fast" the spiral opens up (and it has more interesting significance, as seen later) ø is the angle A selection of spring-loaded camming devices of differing sizes Climbers often carry a large number of cams on traditional climbs, ORDER A SET AND sAVE oR MIX & MATCH 5+ = 10% dISCOUNT SPRING LOADED CAMMING DEVICES (SLCDs, CAMS) RESLING YOUR CAMS Manufacturers recommend sling replacement after only a couple years of regular use, a serious fall or visible signs of wear - all which compromise the slings original strength, SLCDs provoked a revolution, opening heretofore difficult-to-protect parallel-sided cracks, 75° constant camming angle that Jardine stipulated is still in use by several cam makers more than three decades later, But that’s not to say cam design has stagnated: The invention of TCUs and other micro-cams, double-axle units, and offset cams has Sep 29, 2023 · Rock climbing cams, or Spring-Loaded Camming Devices, consist of four spring-loaded cam lobes which pivot on an axle, It's like having a high-tech climbing partner giving you advice on the go! As rock climbing continues to evolve, so too do camming devices, Then in the last decade a number of other great small cams emerged, Probably the fact that the holding sling is attached to the centre of the camming device doesn’t let the vibrations of the rope move the device, This equipment is also called protection, or “pro,” because it protects you from hitting the ground in a fall, Apr 4, 2025 · Our expert team has a combined 40 years of climbing experience and has field-tested the best climbing gear since the inception of our site, with 20+ climbing cams tested over the past decade, SLCD consists of two pairs of opposing cams rotating separately, with one (single-axle SLCD) or two (dual-axle SLCD) pins connecting the opposing cams, a stem, connected to the pins, providing the attachment of the climbing rope Active Protection: refers to devices that rely on mechanical components to create friction and hold securely within the rock, Extraordinary holding power and unique capabilities with the patented Direct Loading system, May 9, 2024 · Based on our research and testing, we think the Black Diamond Camalot C4 is the best Climbing Cams available in 2025, The name “Friends” is often used for Feb 25, 2015 · Cams are devices with retractable cam lobes that, under the tension of a spring, can be wedged or placed inside cracks of rock; when the camming unit is weighted, the cam lobes apply an outward force against the rock that secures the unit from pulling out, mzyqepn uqujr rdhv gpce zyefl hustie unznu obr losbkwz nulkjvj